Menswear Glossary
Plain-English definitions of the tailoring, fabric and leather terms used across our guides.
B
Barathea
Silk or wool fabric with a smooth, glossy finish and a subtle ribbed texture, commonly used in formal wear and accessories.
Basted fitting
Temporary hand-stitching to hold garment components together for fitting, adjusted or removed before final construction.
Besom pocket
A pocket with a small opening and no visible stitching, typically found on formal trousers and constructed with a small slit
Bespoke
Custom-made clothing created from scratch, with multiple fittings, to individual client specifications and measurements.
Birdseye
Birdseye fabric features small, rounded dots or spots on a solid background, typically woven in a cotton or wool blend with a subtle texture.
Black tie
Formal dress code requiring dinner jacket, trousers, and bow tie, often paired with patent leather shoes
Black-tie optional
Formal event dress code allowing black-tie or dark suit with tie, typically featuring peak lapel or shawl collar jackets.
Blake stitch
Single-needle stitching method used for attaching sole to upper, less water-resistant than Goodyear welt
Brocade
Brocade is a rich, intricately woven fabric featuring metallic or silk threads, often with complex patterns and designs, typically used for formal or luxury clothing.
Broguing
Decorative perforations and stitching on shoe upper, often featuring intricate designs
Burnishing
Process of polishing leather to create high-gloss finish by applying heat and pressure
Business casual
Professional attire without a suit, typically consisting of dress pants, button-down shirts, and leather shoes, made from wool, cotton, or synthetic fabrics.
C
Cashmere
Luxurious fabric made from the soft, fine undercoat of cashmere goats, prized for its warmth, softness, and lightweight properties.
Chalk stripe
Chalk stripe fabric features thin, white or light-colored stripes on a darker background, typically woven in a wool or wool-blend fabric with a subtle sheen.
Chelsea boot
Ankle-high boot with elastic sides and pull tab, often made from leather or suede
Chrome tanning
Chrome tanning is a leather tanning process using chromium salts, resulting in a soft and supple leather with improved resistance to heat and water
Cocktail attire
Semi-formal evening wear, often including a navy or charcoal suit, dress shirt, and tie, made from wool or cotton fabrics.
Corduroy wale
Corduroy wale refers to the width of the ribbed pattern on corduroy fabric, with wider wales indicating a thicker, more textured fabric.
Corrected grain
Corrected grain leather is a type of leather that has been sanded and finished to remove imperfections, resulting in a uniform texture and appearance
Cummerbund
Wide sash worn around the waist with a dinner jacket, usually made from silk or satin, available in various colors and patterns.
D
Derby
Lace-up shoe with open lacing system, where quarters are stitched on top of vamp
Dinner jacket
Single-breasted or double-breasted jacket for formal evening events, usually made from wool or silk, featuring satin or silk lapels.
Double vent
A style of jacket or coat vent featuring two openings at the back, allowing for ease of movement and comfort
Drop
Difference between jacket chest size and trouser waist size, e.g., a 6-inch drop means 36R jacket with 30W trousers.
F
Flannel
Soft, brushed cotton or wool fabric with a thick, plush pile, often used in casual, cold-weather clothing for its warmth and comfort.
Fresco
A type of high-twist wool fabric, often used for summer clothing, known for its breathability and wrinkle resistance
Full-canvas
Jacket construction with canvas throughout, providing optimal shape, stability, and durability.
Full-grain leather
Full-grain leather is a high-quality leather made from the strongest, most durable part of the hide, with no sanding or buffing to remove imperfections
Fused construction
Jacket construction using glue to attach interlining to fabric, less expensive than canvas, but less durable.
G
Glen check
Glen check features small, evenly spaced checks in a grid pattern, typically on a woolen fabric with a subtle sheen and soft texture.
Goodyear welt
Construction method where leather strip is stitched to upper and sole for added strength
Gorge
Seam where jacket lapel meets collar, influencing overall jacket style, with varying heights and angles.
Grenadine
Grenadine is a type of silk tie fabric, characterized by a subtle texture and open weave, often used in traditional and formal neckties
H
Half-canvas
Jacket construction with canvas in chest and shoulder areas for shape and stability, fused or stitched elsewhere.
Harris Tweed
Traditional Scottish tweed fabric made from pure wool, woven on manual looms and known for its high quality, durability, and distinctive Orb mark.
Herringbone
Fabric with a distinctive chevron pattern, created by alternating rows of parallel yarns, often used in suits, coats, and accessories for its texture and visual interest.
Hopsack
Loosely woven fabric with a textured, grid-like pattern, often used in summer suits for its breathability and lightweight construction.
Houndstooth
Fabric with a broken check pattern, created by alternating dark and light yarns, often used in formal wear and accessories for its subtle, sophisticated texture.
J
Jacquard
Jacquard fabric features intricate, woven patterns created using a specialized loom, often with complex designs and multiple colors.
Jetted pocket
A type of pocket with a narrow opening and a small pouch, often lined and used on formal coats and jackets
L
Lambswool
Soft, lightweight wool fabric made from the first shearing of sheep, known for its warmth, durability, and gentle texture.
Lapel roll
The point where the lapel meets the collar, a well-made roll creates a smooth, rounded shape and a professional finish
Last
Model or shape used to create shoe's form, affecting fit and overall appearance
Linen
Linen is a natural fiber made from flax plants, woven into a breathable, lightweight fabric often used in summer suits and trousers
M
Made-to-measure
Garments created from pre-existing patterns, altered to fit individual client measurements, with limited customization options.
Merino
Type of wool fabric made from the fleece of merino sheep, valued for its softness, fineness, and ability to regulate body temperature.
Mohair
Silk-like fabric made from the hair of angora goats, known for its durability, sheen, and ability to hold dye well.
Moleskin
Moleskin is a thick, cotton fabric with a soft, velvety pile on one side and a smooth surface on the other, often used for durable, comfortable clothing.
Monk strap
Type of shoe featuring strap and buckle closure, often used on formal or business shoes
N
Notch lapel
Lapel style with small notch at gorge, typically found on two-button or peak lapel jackets, less formal than peak.
Nubuck
Nubuck is a type of leather with a soft, velvety texture, created by buffing the leather to raise the fibers, similar to suede but with a more subtle texture
O
Oxford
Lace-up shoe with closed lacing system, where quarters are stitched under vamp
P
Patch pocket
A pocket with a visible patch of fabric sewn onto the garment, often used on casual jackets and trousers
Patina
Patina refers to the natural aging process of leather, resulting in a unique, worn appearance that develops over time, often desirable for its character and charm
Peak lapel
Lapel style with pointed, peaked shape, often found on double-breasted or formal jackets, conveying elegance and sophistication.
Pick stitching
Visible, hand-stitched thread on seam edges, often in contrasting color, for decorative and reinforcing purposes.
Pinstripe
Pinstripe fabric has very thin, evenly spaced stripes, usually on a solid-colored background, often woven in wool or cotton with a crisp, smooth texture.
Pocket square
Folded square of cloth, typically silk or cotton, placed in a jacket's breast pocket to add a touch of elegance and personality.
Q
Quarter lining
A type of lining that only covers the front quarter panels of a jacket, reducing weight and increasing comfort
S
Saffiano
Type of luxury leather known for cross-hatch texture and wax-based treatment for durability
Seersucker
Seersucker is a striped or checked fabric woven in a specific way to create a textured, rippled effect, often made from cotton or linen and used for warm-weather clothing.
Shawl collar
A type of collar style featuring a continuous curve of fabric, often used on dinner jackets and formal coats
Silk shantung
Silk shantung is a type of silk fabric with a subtle texture, woven from wild silk fibers, often used in ties and pocket squares
Smart casual
Dress code blending casual and formal elements, such as dress pants, button-down shirts, and blazers, often in cotton, wool, or leather.
Smoking jacket
Luxurious, typically velvet or silk, jacket for informal evening wear, often featuring quilted or embroidered designs and leather buttons.
Sprezzatura
Italian concept of effortless elegance, achieved through carefully selected, high-quality clothing and accessories, such as wool suits, leather shoes, and simple jewelry.
Suede
Suede is a type of leather with a soft, velvety texture, created by buffing the leather to raise the fibers, often used in shoes and accessories
Super 120s
A high-quality wool fabric with a fineness of 18.5 microns, indicating a soft and durable texture
Surgeon's cuffs
Working button cuffs with functional buttons, allowing sleeves to be easily rolled up, originally designed for surgeons.
T
Ticket pocket
A small pocket above the right hip pocket, originally designed to hold train tickets, now a decorative element
Top-grain leather
Top-grain leather is a type of leather made from the outermost layer of the hide, sanded to remove imperfections, resulting in a strong and supple material
Tweed
Thick, rough-textured wool fabric with a woven pattern, often used in country-style clothing and outerwear for its durability and water resistance.
Two-ply yarn
Two-ply yarn is a type of yarn made from two strands of fiber twisted together, providing added strength and durability to fabrics
V
Vamp
Front part of shoe upper, typically made from single piece of leather for seamless look
Vegetable tanning
Vegetable tanning is a traditional leather tanning process using natural tannins from plants, resulting in a strong and breathable leather
Velvet
Velvet is a luxurious fabric with a soft, plush pile on one side and a smooth surface on the other, often made from cotton, silk, or synthetic fibers.
Velveteen
Velveteen is a cotton fabric with a soft, velvety pile and a smooth surface, similar to velvet but less luxurious and often less durable.
Vicuña
Rare and expensive fabric made from the soft, warm fleece of vicuña animals, known for its exceptional softness and warmth.
W
Windowpane
Windowpane is a fabric pattern characterized by a large, grid-like check with thin, evenly spaced stripes, often on a light-colored background.
Woollen spun
A type of yarn made from carded wool fibers, producing a softer and more textured fabric than worsted wool
Worsted wool
A type of wool yarn made from long-staple fibers, producing a smooth and lustrous fabric with good drape
